Wines of the World: An aperitif lifestyle

Aperitifs, a French term that refers to a ‘light’ alcoholic drink that stimulates the appetite, is new again.  This idea has been around since the 1700s so over time, it’s an old drink that became new, which then became old, and is now new again.  Reminds us of the guys who hold on to the narrow ties when fashion dictates they slip into some wide versions, and as soon as possible go back to the narrow ones, happily thinking of them as new again.

We know what to do with the popular aperitifs, Champagne, Sherry, Vermouth, Dubonnet, and Lillet. Drink cold and ‘neat’ (no ice) for the first two, or over ice with a splash of soda and wedge of lime for the Vermouth,  Dubonnet, and Lillet.

Straight-up and on the rocks just won’t do at today’s ‘boutique bars’ that play with a large scale of ingredients.

Challenge the bartender.  Ask for some of the lesser known aperitifs that are fortified and non-fortified, brandy based, or ‘vin de liqueurs’ that encompass all things herbal in the rest of the world.  Or buy your own.  Once opened they will hold well in the refrigerator for over a week, or for several months if mixed as a cocktail.

Below are notes and quotes that enthralled us from Brian Cronin MS (Master Sommelier) at the recent Texas Sommeliers Conference in Irving at the Four Seasons.  These aperitifs are sugar based so are delicious balanced with salty snacks made from nuts, olives, chips, and ham.

Pimm’s No. 1, based on gin and flavored with herbs, spices, and sweeteners was invented in 1841 in London.   The version, RN 74 Pimms, complete with ginger, is especially bright vibrant, and refreshing.  An English gentleman at the conference piped up that Pimm’s is never drunk straight in the UK, but only as a base for cocktails.  The classic is one part Pimm’s with seven parts gingerale, 7UP, or lemonade garnished with mint and a cucumber stick.

Couer de Lion, Pommeau de Normandie also called a mistelle, is about two-thirds unfermented apple juice and one-third Calvados (apple brandy from Armagnac).  It gets its dark copper color from 14 months in oak barrels.  Rich and complex, Pommeau de Normandie energizes and makes you hungry as an aperitif because of its sugar content.  Intense and complex it’s also a real winner with apple pie for dessert.

Gaston Riviere, Pineau des Charentes from western France is a fortified wine or mistelle made from a blend of unfermented grape must and Cognac.  The white, although full-bodied, is soft and elegant while the rose/red is more powerful and aromatic.  Go to www.pineau.fr for cocktail suggestions such as Les Prince de Galles with apple juice and Benedictine.

Campari is an Italian classic.  Sterling was first introduced to it in 1945.  Army headquarters were at the Excelsior in Rome.  At the café in front of the hotel soldiers would try campari and soda, a negroni by adding gin and sweet vermouth, or an Americano made with compari and vermouth.  These cocktails are all beautiful hues of red depending on ingredients added.  The company sells small uniquely shaped bottles of compari and soda that are on 10 percent alcohol. Compari’s base is infused with oranges, rhubarb, aromatic plants, and bitter herbs combined in a ‘secret’ recipe.  It is distributed in 190 countries.

Punt E Mes is an Italian vermouth with a flavor between red vermouth and campari with a dark, rich, and bitter finish.  Punt E Mes translates as ‘point and a half’ ---- a point of sweetness and a half point of bitterness combined.  Cocktails can be made with fruit juice, sparkling water or tonic water.  One conference attendee said it is delicious with a lightly dressed salad of bitter greens, grilled chicken, candied pecans, and blackberries.

Dates for the next TEXSOM conference are August 15 and 16, 2010 at the Irving Four Seasons.  There are both public and professional events.